9.16.2007

Officially a Resident

I have an address in Bangkok now. My studio apartment is right off Soi Rangnam, a sweet street known for its unassuming restaurants that serve some of the best Isan (Northeastern Thai) food in the city. Almost all of the residents are Thai so it's not as expensive as more touristy areas. (Apparently, though, more farangs have moved here recently as they've caught wind of the perks. Seems gentrification is alive and well all over the world.) I have just about everything I need right outside my door: dry cleaning, laundromat, video rental, 7-11, grocery store, tailor, internet cafe, coffee shops, bakery, movie theatre, karaoke bar, a gorgeous gym/pool/sauna in a nearby hotel. But my favorite neighborhood attraction—my respite from all the hustle and bustle of the city—is the lush park with ½-mile walking path. Masses gather there every evening for Tai Chi and aerobics. The latter is a sight to behold as music blasts from the speakers and instructors spur their pupils on with great animation. There are always several badminton matches in progress. A small “gym” in one corner contains structures for stretching, pull-ups and sit-ups. There's also a pond, which produces an impressive lights and water show set to classical music every night at seven. One thing that threw me the first time I experienced it: At the same time every morning and evening, park officials blow their whistles and everyone stops still in their tracks to listen to the national anthem. It's just a sight you don't see everyday. Well, I suppose I do now. Anyway, I feel so lucky that I'm in the perfect neighborhood for me and it's convenient (four Skytrain stops) to work, thanks to having Sarah know where I'd be happiest. I'm sure without her recommendations, I could be having a much different experience.

Backtrack: My transition. It wasn't exactly a walk in the park. The relentless pace of Bangkok was an abrupt slap of reality after the lackadaisical vibe in Chiang Mai. Sarah and I crossed paths in the air as she went to vacation in Northern Thailand, so I was left to my own devices, which was a good thing in retrospect (character building and all that). I negotiated the city looking the wide-eyed awkward tourist part I'm sure. A Thai native from my school took me apartment hunting, which was heaven-sent because I have no idea how I would have done it without speaking Thai. Luckily she was also available a few days later when I needed to move out because of an adverse reaction (understatement) to the mold-ridden walls. But all's well that ends well because I love my new mold-free apartment on the corner with lots of light. And I'm starting to feel quite at home in my neighborhood and excited about all the adventures this city can offer.

Aerobics in the park: The old man in the yellow tank top is there all the time and could probably outfight any 20-something

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