Vaca flashback

During my time off the week before moving to Bangsaen, I essentially had two very different mini-vacations. First, Koh Samet with Demelza and Isabella. It rained for much of the 48 hours we were there, but we still had a grand time eating and talking, eating and talking. It cleared up at night so we could hang out by the ocean at the beach bars with their mats and low tables and fire shows and hookah pipes. If you visit Bangkok and don't have time to get down south to the top-ranked beaches and islands - Krabi, Phuket, Samui, Phi Phi, etc, etc - Koh Samet is a great alternative. It's not as breath-taking as the others (based on a little personal experience and a little hearsay) and has been over-developed despite its national park status, but still sports white sand and clear water. Because of its proximity to Bangkok - three to four hours on a bus, plus a 30-minute ferry ride - it can get crowded, especially on weekends. There's a lively nightlife scene with barbecues, bars and dance clubs, and a good mix of Thais, expats and travelers.

When Isabella and Demelza left to get back for Saturday classes, I stayed on for a couple of days in Ban Phe, the jumping off port town for Koh Samet. More specifically, I went about ten or so kilometers down the beach road to Laem Mae Phim, which feels like a hidden paradise. I don't think many foreigners have seen this part of Thailand as I saw three in the two days I spent there. If it's peaceful getaway you want, stop here rather than taking the ferry over to Samet. I met the woman in the picture above almost immediately. She was so good to me, even inviting me to stay in her home, though I declined, and her son (not the one pictured) drove me all the way to the bus station in Rayong. Very kind family.

A serene Buddhist temple sits atop a hill at the very end of Laem Mae Phim Beach.

The view from the temple.

A woman praying at the temple.

Children running out of the ocean at the end of the day. The beach was mostly deserted during the day, but in the late afternoon, large groups of Thais gathered to play sports on the sand or ride banana boats in the water. I happened upon one group of maybe 50 people, most of them wearing face paint and about half in orange shirts. I think they had just played some sort of game and I caught them picking up the course - five long, narrow lines created with dozens of scrunched up shirts, umbrellas, and other skinny objects. I sort of regret not lifting my camera because it was fascinating, but in the moment, I felt intrusive and was just too shy to start snapping away. Maybe next time.

Proud to be an American in Bangsaen

So far so good in Bangsaen. Since my arrival on Sunday, I've gradually slipped into easygoing beach living mode. Even work seems more relaxed when you can gaze out at the ocean from the 6th floor window during breaks. Today, Friday, is my day off and I just returned from what's become my routine morning walk down the palm-shaded path you see in the picture above, only minutes from my apartment. It's so peaceful there in the mornings with a smattering of people lounging in the deck chairs and vendors just opening up their shops and restaurants on the other side of the path (seen in the picture below). The rows of chairs and umbrellas continue farther than I've yet walked and apparently fill up on weekends when Thai tourists arrive by the bus and carloads. Truth be told, the narrow strip of beach isn't much and the people I've talked to are wary of the water, revising my previous mental images of sunset dips and strolls sans shoes. But I'll just take a page from the Thais. They mostly come to the beach to recline under the umbrellas, order food and chill out with friends. Not a bad plan at all. And I'm already relishing the cooler and fresher air. It's so nice to eat seafood outside and not feel tightness in the chest from exhaust (Sorry for the cheap shot, Bangkok. You know I still love you. We just need some time apart.)

The town itself is small, almost entirely Thai (I've seen just a few foreigners walking around) and centered around the university. The language school I teach for is actually in the engineering building on campus so most of my students are college students. I'm down here with another teacher from Bangkok, Dave, who's coincidentally also North Carolina born and bred. Both of us got the feeling we had stepped into the Thai version of Myrtle Beach, at least the Strand area (is it even called that anymore? I'm having great memories from high school now). More hi-so Thais weekend at Hua Hin, while this place attracts pickup trucks and souped-up cars. I've seen a couple of such cars sneaking (by this, I mean right in front of the police officers) in a practice round before the annual speed race, which takes place this weekend along the main street that runs parallel to the beach.

Of course Wednesday around noon my time, I was nowhere near the beach, but glued to the TV watching Obama make history. I will never forget sitting on the bed and sobbing over his words and the reactions of people in the crowd, particularly the older generation who must have thought they'd never see such progress in their lifetime. I managed to get it together and apply sunscreen to meet Dave for lunch. We were both in a state of elation and could hardly stop talking about the significance of it all. Even during unrelated topics of conversation, one of us would say "Obama" and we'd break into smiles. Then we each received texts from non-American friends who were just as excited and it really hit home how much this election meant to everyone and how most people from other countries really do want America to succeed. It's been a while since I've felt this proud to be an American, and it's not only because of the way in which Obama won, but also the way in which McCain lost - with grace and even the promise of support. I like to hold classroom debates, particularly in the advanced classes with students who will soon study abroad. Some have asked me with real wonder if it's true that Americans get into heated debates and then laugh about it or shake hands afterward. I laughed the first time I heard the question because I hadn't thought of it that way before, but answered yes, that sounds about right. Most of my students really enjoy debating once they get into it, but I have to choose the subject matter carefully. Thailand's current political strife is off-limits for sure. It's a great thing to be able to air differences and still stand in the same room when the dust settles. There's obviously a lot wrong in America today, but this far-away perspective has given me a new appreciation for what's right.

Go Obama!!

Dinner parties rule

I know I'm always going on about the Thai food here—and it's definitely gush-worthy, don't get me wrong—but sometimes I have an overpowering craving for pizza or pasta. Usually pizza. But this time pasta. Isabella and Toby invited people to their apartment for dinner a few weeks ago and served a pasta dish so savory, I requested a repeat a couple of nights ago. Underneath that gorgeous bed of pasta is a heap of superfoods: steamed broccoli and cauliflower, grape tomatoes, sun-dried tomatoes, green, red and yellow bell peppers, mushrooms, black beans, pecans, green onion, basil and cilantro. She stirred it all up with olive oil, balsamic vinegar, salt and pepper, then served it with bread, cheese, salami and wine. Mamma mia, I was spoon-(and glass)-to-mouth all evening.

And now for the news segment of the program...ta da da da...oh it's not that big, but I'm very excited. I'm going to teach next term (six weeks) at another branch, and this one's on the...wait for it...beach!! Okay, so it's not Krabi or Koh Samui—apparently not even close—but it's still a beach. It's actually only an hour from Bangkok in Bangsaen so I can visit the city if I need a fix. The school I teach for has branches all over Thailand and one of its great perks is that teachers have the opportunity to fill in when other branches need help. They'll pay for my apartment here and travel expenses (obviously a bigger perk if you venture farther away than an hour). So I have next week off between terms and start there the following Monday. People who have been to Bangsaen rave about the fresh seafood so expect to get an earful (er, eyeful?) about that pretty soon.

Midnight marathon and cheap tricks

Had an interesting taxi ride home last night. It was a little after midnight and we were waiting at a light when probably about a thousand runners (the cab driver said two thousand) came tearing out of the dark and up the other side of the street. There was something really funny about this unexpected sight. Our driver, almost certainly hopped up on something, thought it was exceptionally amusing and couldn't stop laughing and pointing. A marathon at that hour makes perfect sense, though, with no sun or heavy traffic to contend with.

The taxi fare for that ride home was 67 baht. Isabella handed the driver a 100 and asked for a 20 back. Then the conversation went like this:
Driver: Sorry, no change.
Isabella: (laughing) Yes you do, I know you do.
Me: Oh wait, here's 70.
Driver: What did you say? 70? (digging in his pocket) I have change.

Isabella took the picture above. I didn't want to reach over the cab driver so I handed the camera to her. I like the strange blending of some of the runners with the couple on a motorbike.

Bug over, bring on the pizza, but hold the ketchup

There are many experiences to be had in Thailand—noshing on roadside food, bargaining down to the last baht in the weekend market, getting an hour-long foot massage for about five bucks, to name a few. But you’re not fully initiated until you get some good bacterial food poisoning that makes it nearly impossible to leave the apartment. I hosted some kind of parasite about a month after moving here, but haven’t had any problems since then until last week. This time around I hastened recovery by spending 24 hours in the hospital hooked to a constant drip of fluids and antibiotics. The hospital I go to is unbelievably nice, even a little surreal. Bright, shiny and distinctly modern down to the white Barcelona-style chairs grouped in mass in all the waiting rooms, it’s more akin to a spa than any hospital I’ve been to in the US. All of the nurses wear skirt suits, heels, nurse’s caps, and a wide smile (come to think of it, I have yet to see a male nurse, I suppose due to the more defined gender roles here). Anyway, it was actually kind of nice to give in and let food and drinks come to me. I left my apartment in a hurry, intending on a quick appointment to rule out dengue or anything wild like that, not even grabbing a book. A book was exactly what I first longed for when I agreed to stay, but all literary inclinations were forgotten once I found the remote control. I grew determined to make up for a year of almost no TV, devouring National Geographic, CNN, BBC, Oprah, CSI, and my new favorite sitcom. Was I just that light-headed or is The Nanny really one of the funniest shows ever created? I pledged to buy the whole set on DVD and was disappointed to learn later that only the first two seasons are available. Ah well, maybe I can catch reruns when I’m back in the States.

Oh, and by the way, I’m 100% better now. I even ordered a pizza the other night for the first time since moving here. My medium pepperoni pie arrived with six packets of ketchup, a Thai fascination I don’t really understand. Most Thais will completely smother non-Thai food—pizza, pasta, sandwiches—with ketchup or chili sauce to give it more flavor. I love how humorous cultural differences can be. Like this one: It’s perfectly acceptable to pick your nose here (I’m talking half a finger outta sight) and then examine the, uh, fruits of your labor. Then on the other hand (forgive me), it’s seen as completely repulsive to bite your nails or put your fingers in your mouth, actions that are fairly innocuous to Westerners. You funny, funny world.

[Writing this blog sometimes gives me ideas of pictures I need to take. I'll add one to this post later. It's either going to be a ketchup-covered pizza or someone digging. Got a preference?]

More on Chiang Mai

I spent most of my time in Chiang Mai catching up with people I got to know last year and seeing some temples that I never got around to during that time.

A girl friend and I were out one night when we realized the tendency men have for comparing women’s features to animals. A guy approached our table and told her she has eyes like a panda during the day and like a cat at night. That reminded me of P’Tom who tells me he likes my chicken egg face and rabbit teeth. (Apparently, it’s a plus here if your two front teeth are longer than the rest, and there was even a time when hi-so women were shelling out for the dental work to accomplish this).

Another observation: As much as I love Chiang Mai, Bangkok has it beat for sure in one area—public transportation. In Bangkok, almost every place you’d need to go is convenient to a skytrain stop. And if it’s not, you just flag down a taxi anywhere, anytime—for cheap. Chiang Mai has overpriced tuk-tuks and songthaews that can be hard to find at times. Most people who live there depend on motorbikes, so if you won’t ride one, you’d better be prepared to stand your ground against a lot of peer pressure. I’m one of the rare few who won’t but for what I consider pretty good reasons. It was just about five years ago I was learning how to walk again, and once in a lifetime is enough for that. During rehab, I also met enough people there because of motorcycle accidents to dissuade me from ever riding one. Despite this, I really did almost give in for a short ride with a guy who swore on his safety. Last second, though, I couldn’t do it and shared a pricy tuk-tuk with someone else. When we all reached our next destination, the girl who did ride on the back of his bike was very shaken and scratched up. They had had an accident on the way over and she fell off, but luckily walked away with only scratches down one leg and arm. Because they were both foreigners and collided with Thais, they had to give all their money or deal with the police. No matter whose fault it is, the foreigner will always pay, and the police will make especially sure of this (they would get a cut of course).

This obviously affirmed my mistrust of motorbikes. It also reminded me of a Thai guy I know in Bangkok who wrecked his bike once, smashing all of the bones on the left side of his face. After many surgeries, he wrecked his bike again and smashed all the bones on the right side of his face. Sounds tragic, but he claims it’s okay. After the first wreck, he was ugly on one side and handsome on the other, but after the second, he was ugly on both so at least it’s even now. Gotta know how to look at the bright side I guess!

Back in Chiang Mai

I remember now why I loved this small city so much when I lived here during the first six weeks of my time in Thailand. The (relatively) fresh air, mountainous backdrop, and denizens so laid-back they make Bangkokians look uptight (wow, how will I ever adjust to the American pace again?). I'm here now on term break and feel so re-energized. Don't get me wrong - Bangkok has its own special place in my heart. I'm content with loving each place for very different reasons.

I arrived by overnight train, which left Bangkok at 10pm and reached Chiang Mai about 15 hours later. Sounds unpleasant, which is why my expectations were low, but I actually loved the experience. Reading at length, staring out of the window at gorgeous scenes passing by like a picture show, chatting with people from all over...these are things you just can't get on an hour flight (not to mention train travel is much more economical). Rumors of a frigid first class convinced me to go for second. With a fan and cool air blowing through open windows, its temperature was perfect. A look at my mattress in the morning light, though, revealed all that accompanied that nice breeze. Dead mosquitoes and even a huge moth peppered an area too close to my pillow. Note for the return trip: sleep with head toward the front of the train for minimal critter contact. Despite having a semi-conscious sense that this was happening (I had a very vivid dream involving mosquitoes), the constant, rather loud "clickety clack" of the wheels underneath and the frequent and sudden jolts, I managed some sound stints of sleep. The trick? Earplugs and an eye mask. Never travel without them. I woke rested to a splendid morning in the countryside.

So now I have about 24 more hours before hopping on the train again. I'll post pictures and more words when I get back to Bangkok!