As tends to be the case anywhere you live, you don't see the major tourist attractions until visitors come to town. With the rush of finding an apartment and starting a job, I slipped right into life in Bangkok with no time to play tourist. Since then, I've seen a lot of the city's hidden gems, but only a few of its "biggies". Last week, though, friends of my aunt Debbie rolled through town on a Thailand/Cambodia tour and took me to a show that's uniquely and fabulously Bangkok. The famous Calypso Cabaret stages the creme de la creme of Bangkok's ladyboys, or katoeys. As the gender-bending performers pay tribute to Carmen Miranda and Josephine Baker and put their own twist on Chicago's "All That Jazz" and Thai classical dance (just to name a few), showgoers jiggle with laughter and marvel at the transformation, squinting for signs of manhood.Barbara and Sandy with whom I believe is Eartha Kitt:
Katoeys are a much larger part of Thai culture than cabaret shows, though. Sometimes referred to as the third sex, they're very visible here, and most Thais don't give a second thought to the often exaggerated female form (lots of makeup, sexy clothes, ultra feminine gestures and walk) passing by, or serving som tom at a sidewalk stand, or returning change at the 7-11. For the most part, they're very embraced, admired for their looks, and even believed by some to bring their families good luck. Life for ladyboys can be rough, though. They tend to travel in packs and can be vicious and moody. A former student of mine was absent for a while and then came back with bloody eyes. A group of fellow ladyboys had attacked her and thrown paint in her face. The other classmates presumed that they were jealous of her looks.
I usually have a katoey or two in my classes each term, a welcome sight on the first day because they're usually among the best speakers in the class and forthcoming with answers (probably from so much interaction with farang). Some of the more subtle beauties are so pretty and feminine, the only way I know they're male is the class roster which lists them as a Mr. (Even if katoeys go for the final snip, they legally remain males). After hormone replacement, plastic surgery and other procedures, some can be quite convincing, much to the chagrin of Western men in romantic pursuit. There are countless stories of farang who flirted all night with a presumed female and wound up with a surprise ending.~~~
Barbara and Sandy, thanks so much for a delightful evening of entertainment, sushi and conversation. It was great seeing you and I can't wait to hear about the rest of your trip!
